Insider tips and details for a 5-day São Miguel itinerary, with maps

Incredible vistas over green landscapes and volcanic lakes like Sete Cidades, easy hiking trails like Miradouro da Grota do Inferno with gorgeous views as rewards, and delicious Portuguese cuisine like Cozido à Portuguesa are just some of the things listed on this detailed São Miguel itinerary. 

You could spend weeks exploring the Azores’ (and Portugal’s) largest island, but with only 5 days in São Miguel, I carefully checked and curated the places worth visiting. 

So here’s how to visit São Miguel for a slow-paced yet comprehensive and fulfilling itinerary (mostly for non-hikers), with important facts and insider tips.

Fun facts about São Miguel

1. São Miguel is the largest of the Azores islands.

2. São Miguel is the most connected island of the Azores, with international flights to and from various locations throughout the day.

3. Despite being the largest Azores island, São Miguel is still relatively small, and it takes just over an hour to drive across the island.

4. São Miguel is nicknamed Ilha Verde, meaning the green island, and it’s true to its name. Lush green landscapes are all over the island.

5. There are more cows than people on São Miguel, with only 135,000 human residents, and about 150,000 cows.

6. Introduced in 1850, the pineapple has replaced oranges as the most grown crop in the Azores. According to the Ananas plantation we visited in Ponta Delgada, São Miguel is the only place in the world where pineapples are produced in greenhouses.

7. There’s only 1 tea plantation in Europe, and it’s in São Miguel, called Gorreana tea plantation. 

8. There’s a traditional way of cooking, which is “cozido nas caldeiras”: food cooked in volcanic heat, below the ground. You can try a few restaurants in Furnas town, like Caldeiras & Vulcões or Tony’s restaurant (make sure to reserve in advance). Keep in mind these meals are usually meat-heavy, but you can find a few seafood or vegetarian options today. 

9. For cat lovers, you’ll find stray cats at some miradouros, particularly at Miradouro da Ponta do Sossego and Miradouro da Ponta da Madrugada. The ones at Ponta do Sossego seemed hungry (I fed all of them (cat) food, of course), but the ones at Ponta da Madrugada are well taken care of, with food bowls and water filled up (I still fed them before I saw their bowls, and they were happy for the treats).

Tips for São Miguel to avoid mistakes

1. Being the largest and most-visited Azores island, finding accommodation isn’t as challenging as on the other islands like Flores, though it’s still recommended to book a few months ahead, especially if visiting during peak season (May-August).

We stayed at the loveliest accommodation, Casa Azul. While not locally owned (I usually try to stay at locally owned accommodation), they are eco-friendly, and recycle and compost everything.

2. Like the other Azores islands, São Miguel has a humid, sub-tropical climate, and the weather can change fast within a few hours or sometimes even a few minutes. Always be prepared for rain and wind, but also don’t cancel a whole day’s plans if it’s raining on one of side of the island. Explore the lower grounds closer to sea level instead.

We had 4 sunny days and 1 stormy day right after. It looked like the end of the world (strong wind and heavy rain for 12 hours straight), but it cleared up to make way for another sunny day by late afternoon.

3. Use old, dark-coloured swimwear and towels if you’re heading to the hot springs, as the iron-rich water will stain your clothes. 

4. You will need a car to explore São Miguel (check the best car rental rates here). Guided tours of São Miguel are an option if you don’t feel like driving, and while I do love doing tours with a local guide, in São Miguel, I honestly preferred the freedom of driving, which helped to escape crowds at places like Sete Cidades.

What to do in São Miguel?

Many people visit the Azores islands for their scenic hiking trails, but you will still thoroughly enjoy the archipelago and São Miguel if you’re not a big hiking enthusiast (like me). 

(Find more details about the Azores and its 9 islands here).

• See panoramic and scenic landscapes like volcanic lakes and greenery everywhere.
• Soak in mineral-rich hot springs and thermal water, or natural pools by the ocean.
• Go hiking on the multitude of hiking trails all over São Miguel.
• Try unique São Miguel things like the pineapple (only grown in greenhouses in São Miguel) and the Gorreana tea (the only tea plantation in Europe).
• Relax at the beach, but be warned that the beaches in São Miguel are not soft, white sandy beaches. Just like Portugal’s other island, Madeira, the Azores are volcanic, and the beaches are usually black sand, volcanic beaches.

What’s the ideal 5-day São Miguel itinerary?

The detailed itinerary below is made for people wishing to see the gorgeous landscape of São Miguel, rather than hiking enthusiasts. While I do enjoy the occasional hike, and I did a brief, easy one in São Miguel, there’s so much to do and see that it just didn’t leave too much time for hiking activities that would eat up half a day or more.

Also, you can drive up to almost all the miradouros without having to hike or walk more than a few hundred meters. 

Note: I stayed at Casa Azul pictured above, near Rabo de Peixe (it was an amazingly cute, eco-friendly accommodation, with very kind hosts). So while I organised the trip with my accommodation’s location in mind, the itinerary below still works for everyone, regardless of where you’re staying. 

Day 1 in São Miguel: explore Sete Cidades in the west

Below is the best itinerary for the Midwest and western part of the island, and the most popular attraction in São Miguel: Sete Cidades.

It’s organised in the most practical way in geographical order, unless you’re coming from the west. If you’re indeed driving in from the west coast, do the opposite route and start from Lagao das Sete Cidades instead.

Regardless of your journey’s starting point, I recommend starting early, around 8:30 AM or earlier, as you’ll go through the miradouros first, which don’t require much time, and then do the short and relatively easy hiking trail at Miradouro da Grota do Inferno, before it gets really crowded around mid-morning.

PS: here are some fun ways to explore the Sete Cidades area, like in quad and buggy tours, kayaking, and biking.

1. Miradouro do Pico do Carvão (this is a scenic spot overlooking green landscapes and a quick stop along the main road).
2. Lagoa de Pau pique and viewpoint: it’s a small inside road, but fairly crowd-free, and in the summer months, the roads are lined with hydrangeas.
3. Miradouro da Vista do Rei, with views over Lagoa Verde and Lagoa Azul. Insider tips for visiting the Miradouro da Vista do Rei:
   • This miradouro is the most famous attraction in São Miguel (it’s on all the marketing images of the Azores), and gets very crowded by 10/10:30 AM.
   • There are a couple of free parking lots, but the maximum time allowed is 20 minutes. 
   • Even though people only stop for a few minutes to take pictures, once the guided tour vans show up, you can expect loud visitors and a complete lack of personal space at the viewpoint. 
   • The Miradouro da Vista do Rei can often be foggy, especially in the morning, but unless there’s a storm, just wait a few minutes for the clouds to clear. 
   • The morning is best for good lightning, as you’ll see the reflection of the sun and clouds on the lake. 
   • The famous abandoned hotel right by the viewpoint, Monte Palace Hotel, was a large luxury hotel that closed down due to a lack of funds and profit. Do not try to get into the hotel for the following reasons:
     • It’s prohibited to enter (there are signs everywhere)
     • You’ll get the same views from the Miradouro da Vista do Rei in front of the hotel
     • It’s not safe to walk around an abandoned and unmanaged building
4. Put on your hiking boots or hiking sandals for a short, easy hike. Park here by Lagoa do Canário (the parking gets very full before 11 AM), stop by the bright green Lagoa do Canário, then head up towards the Miradouro da Grota do Inferno (it’s a 2.5 km/1.6 miles moderate hike, and takes about 1 hour round-trip). You’ll get gorgeous views of Lagoa de Santiago, Lagoa Rasa, and Lagoa Azul. 
5. Miradouro do Cerrado das Freiras. This is a nice stopping point overlooking Lagoa Verde and Lagoa Azul.
6. Miradouro da Lagoa de Santiago for a close-up look of the Lagoa de Santiago.
7. Head into the Sete Cidades town and stop at the intersection of the two lakes. Here you can do water activities like kayaking and pedalo on the lakes. 
8. By now you’ll be starving for lunch, so grab something to eat. There are restaurants and food truck options all over this area.
9. Spend the afternoon relaxing at the natural pools on the west coast: Piscinas Naturais Caneiro in Mosteiros. These are natural volcanic rock pools, and you can swim there, and it’s free.

Insider tip: if you want to lie down next to the natural pools, there’s no sand but just rocks, and it’s quite unpleasant to sit on them for long periods. It’s best to bring something comfy and supportive if you plan to be there for a while.

Day 2 in São Miguel: south/south east of São Miguel (Furnas and hot springs)

1. Start your day early to avoid crowds. The first stop in the morning is the Miradouro do Pico do Ferro for a panoramic view of the Lagoa das Furnas. During peak summer months (June and July), you can see hydrangeas lining the short walk up to the miradouro.
2. Stop by Lagoa das Furnas. The roads to the lagoa were closed when I visited.
3. Visit Furnas, which sits atop an old volcanic crater. There’s still volcanic activity around here, and you’ll see (and smell) the sulfur fumes, but the last eruption was in 1630. 
   Here’s what to do and see in Furnas:
   • Soak in hot springs. The most popular one is Terra Nostra Botanical Gardens, though they get pretty crowded. An alternative for soaking in hot springs is Poça da Dona Beija, as it’s usually less crowded. Go early, at around 9 AM. It’s around €12 per person.
   • Insider tip: Wear a dark swimsuit and keep your hair out of the water, because the iron in the water will leave permanent stains.
   • Around midday, witness the famous Cozido das Furnas in town, where food is cooked in the volcanic hot springs using only natural geothermal heat. If you want to try the food, make reservations at Caldeiras & Vulcões or Tony’s restaurant. 
   • Insider tip: the restaurant menu can be a bit pricey, and is very meat-heavy, so if you simply want to try any food cooked in geothermal heat, just cross the street from the fumes, and you’ll find a small shop selling corn on the cob for less than €2 (cash only). 
4. Miradouro do Salto do Cavalo for panoramic views, but note that it can get quite foggy here, even on a sunny day.

Day 3 in São Miguel: the beautiful Nordeste area

This itinerary starts from the north, driving towards the southeast and ending in the south, but you can of course do it the other way round too. 

There’s no need to start very early for this itinerary.

1. Miradouro da vistas dos barcos: a quiet viewpoint that overlooks cliffs and a lighthouse.  
2. Miradouro da Ponta do Sossego: this is a beautiful cliffside garden with ocean views, which has become popular on Instagram. You can have picnics in the garden, and even do a barbecue (there are facilities for it). There are also a few friendly stray cats that seemed hungry; I’m not sure these ones are being fed, unlike at the Miradoudo da Ponta da Madrugada. People were feeding them human food scraps, which isn’t recommended. I bought cat food from the supermarket and fed them a mix of dry and wet food.
3. Miradoudo da Ponta da Madrugada: this is another beautiful viewpoint where we saw lots of hydrangeas, but the highlight was the kitties. They’re very friendly and love pets, and someone is taking care of them regularly, as we found bowls with food and water.
4. Cascata Salto de Prego: this is a hiking trail that starts at the trail called “start point” on Maps, and it leads to a waterfall with a small natural pool, called Cascata Salto de Prego. It takes about 45 minutes to get to the waterfall. 
5. Ribeira Quente town
   • Stop by Ribeira Quente town for lunch and for the beach if you fancy some black-sand beach time. It’s a local favourite spot, called Praia do Fogo. There’s also a hidden waterfall near the town.
6. After lunch, keep driving along the coast to Vila Franca do Campo town, from which you can visit Ilhéu de Vila Franca do Campo, a small islet off the coast. You can kayak there from the town’s harbour, or rent a boat for about €12 per person round trip. It takes about 1-2 hours to visit by boat. 

Insider tip: there are snorkeling activities organised there, though some reviews claim you can’t swim there (this could be a seasonal issue). If you like crabs, look for the bright beautiful red crabs (make sure to not disturb or touch them).

Day 4 in São Miguel: middle and north area: Lagoa do Fogo

The day’s route starts from the south, but if you’re coming from the north, do it the other way round. There are a few stops on this day, but all are brief stops. 

1. Miradouro da Barrosa: this viewpoint offers close-up views of Lagoa do Fogo.
2. Miradouro da Lagoa do Fogo: another excellent viewpoint of Lagoa do Fogo, but you can hike down from here all the way to the lagoa, if you wish.
3. Miradouro da Bela Vista: this viewpoint faces the ocean and green landscapes rather than the lake.
4. Centro de Interpretação Ambiental da Caldeira Velha: this is a hot spring spot.
   1. Visit the Água de Pau volcano
   2. Soak in the hot springs Caldeira Velha (need to book ahead, and bring a dark, old bathing suit and towel that you don’t care if they get stained permanently)
5. Have lunch and a dip at Salto do cabrito: this is a 40-meter-high waterfall, falling into a small natural pool. Park nearby or hike the PRC29 SMI Trail, an 8.5 km circular hiking route that begins at the Termas das Caldeiras parking lot in Ribeira Grande. 
   • If you park nearby, by the food truck Água de Fogo, it’s a 10 min walk downhill to the waterfall, and you can enjoy a nice lunch at the food truck afterward.
   • Insider tip: there’s another parking next to the waterfall, but the signs at the road entry that you’ll be walking down say “only authorised vehicles”.

6. Cascata das Lombadas – this is a hike marked as risky by many, so I skipped it, but if you do intend to do it, wear proper hiking gear.
7. Explore Ribeira Grande town for an afternoon treat, like ice cream or a tea-time snack. 
8. Head to the Miradouro do Cintrao, a beautiful sunset cliff with views
9. The Miradouro de Santa Iria is one of my favourite viewpoints, with green cliffs stretching along the coastline. It’s easy to find parking nearby, too and it’s a very short walk to the miradouro. 
10. Visit the only tea plantation in Europe: the Gorreana tea plantation, to learn about tea cultivation in São Miguel. It’s right by the main road.

Day 5 in São Miguel: Ponta Delgada and whale-watching day

Spend your last day in São Miguel exploring the capital city of Ponta Delgada at a slow pace and doing a whale watching and dolphin tour. You can do a free walking tour of the city, see museums, and visit a unique lava cave, then head out for your boat adventure, or do it the other way around. 

Here’s are the main stops in Ponta Delgada

1. City Hall Bell Tower – you can climb to the top for views of the city.
2. Next to City Hall Bell Tower is Portas da Cidade, a symbolic entrance to the city.
3. Walk along the waterfront promenade, though this isn’t really that spectacular. There are some food trucks there, but there’s nothing especially charming to see.
4. Get some treats at Mercado da Graça.
5. Visit Forte de São Brás, a 16th-century structure, with the Military Museum of the Azores inside (€3 for the museum).
6. Head to the church Chapel of Mãe de Deus, located on the hill of Ladeira da Mãe de Deus, from where you’ll get the best views of Ponta Delgada.
7. If you like caves, visit Gruta do Carvão, a unique lava tube and the longest on the island, with volcanic formations that you can explore on a guided tour.
8. Finally, visit the Plantação de Ananás dos Açores for free, or do a guided tour to understand how pineapples are harvested in São Miguel, the only place in Europe where pineapples grow in greenhouses. You can also try the pineapple and other pineapple-related foods and drinks at the on-site cafe, though the prices definitely made it feel like a tourist trap, at least for a Portuguese resident (it cost over €3 for a few slices of pineapple).

In the afternoon, head out into the Atlantic Ocean for whale and dolphin tours. The best time to see them is from April to October, with peak months being April to June.

FAQs: São Miguel itinerary

How big is São Miguel, Azores?

São Miguel is the Azores’ largest island, but it’s measures approximately 745-760 sq km (287-293 square miles), with about 62.1 kilometers (38.6 miles) long and 15.8 kilometers (9.8 miles) wide.

São Miguel trails: which ones to do for non-hikers?

The most popular hiking trails in São Miguel include Vista do Rei to Sete Cidades (PR03 SMI), Lagoa do Fogo (PR02 SMI), and Salto do Prego via Sanguinho (PRC09 SMI), but if you’re a non-hiker looking for a relatively easy, short hike, the best one is the 2.5 km/1.6 miles hike to Miradouro da Grota do Inferno.

Is São Miguel worth visiting?

Yes, São Miguel is absolutely worth visiting, whether you’re into hiking or not. If you love nature, gorgeous landscapes, and panoramic viewpoints (most of which don’t require any physical effort to reach), then yes, São Miguel is worth a visit.

Can you see whales and dolphins in São Miguel?

Yes, you can see whales and dolphins in São Miguel, particularly between April and October, though April to June are the best months. These are the best whale and dolphin watching tours in São Miguel.