Jiufen is often listed on Taipei itineraries as a popular day trip, as it’s particularly famous for the A-Mei teahouse, a beautiful building decorated with red lanterns, widely believed to be the inspiration for the bathhouse in Spirited Away (spoiler alert: it’s not).
But if you go for a day trip, you’ll spend most of your time walking at a snail’s pace in a large group of other tourists, all of whom are crowding the same spot for the same photo of A-Mei. Instead, it’s best to spend at least 1 night in Jiufen, enjoy the place all to yourself in the early morning and at night, and explore off-the-beaten areas nearby.
Here’s a detailed Jiufen travel guide below, including how to get there from Taipei using public transport, a list of the top things to do, where to eat, and lots of insider tips.
How to get to Jiufen from Taipei on public transport?
Getting to Jiufen from Taipei is very straightforward. You have a few options:
- Take the MRT (metro) to ZhongXiao Nanjing MRT station, and then take the 1062 bus straight to Jiufen.
- Take the MRT to Beimen MRT station, and get out at exit 2. Take the 965 bus straight to Jiufen.
Important information for your Taipei-Jiufen trip:
- It takes about an hour or so from Taipei to Jiufen by public transport.
- You can use your contactless card for the MRT, but for the bus you’ll need to use an EasyCard or pay in cash.
- A one-way bus ticket is about 100 Taiwanese dollars, and you’ll need to have the exact amount in cash, because you won’t get change back.
PS: If you prefer a guided tour for less hassle, here are options for Taipei-Jiufen trips.
How long should you spend in Jiufen?
Half a day is enough in Jiufen if you intend to only see the highlights (the A-Mei teahouse and Jiufen’s famous stone stairway, Shuqi Road). You can choose an organised day trip to Jiufen for this experience, which includes transportation and often even a stopover in Shifen.
However, a day trip to Jiufen will, more often than not, mean a crowded experience, with everyone rushing to the same spot for the same photo of the lanterns and the teahouse. For a better experience in Jiufen, I recommend staying at least 1 night, so you can have the town to yourself after 8pm to explore quietly, and the next morning to enjoy a calm and peaceful breakfast in the area.
If you want to explore a bit outside of Jiufen, for instance, to visit the Golden Waterfall or the historic mountain town of Jinguashi, consider staying about 3-4 days in Jiufen.
All the things to do in Jiufen
1. Walk down the famous stone stairway
Jiufen’s most famous street, Shuqi Road, is a stone stairway lined with red lanterns, which glow beautifully at night. Along this road, you’ll also find shops, restaurants, tea houses (including the famous A-Mei tea house), public bathrooms, and even a fortune teller. I do recommend the fortune teller; he’s a sweet old man with a very happy energy (it’s cash only, about $300 Taiwanese dollars at the time of writing).
Insider tip: Shuqi Road gets VERY crowded during the day, to the point that you’re basically lining up to walk down the stairway at snail’s pace. The best time to explore this street is after 8pm when the day trippers have left, and the lanterns glow bright red. However, at that time you might not find many shops or food stalls open, though most restaurants will be open.
2. Visit the A-Mei teahouse
A-Mei teahouse is not just the most popular spot in Jiufen, but in Taiwan overall — it’s one of the most recognizable landmarks, as it’s used in many marketing materials for Taiwan. The teahouse used to be a blacksmith shop, and its historic architecture, the lanterns, and the fact that many people mistakenly think it inspired the bathhouse in the movie Spirited Away have made it very popular.
But don’t just go to its photo spot and take a picture; I actually recommend having tea at A-Mei Tea House, preferably on the terrace in the evening, so you can enjoy the sunset over the sea as the lanterns turn on, and with fewer crowds and a short wait time. The tea ceremony costs about $300 in Taiwanese dollars or €8 (cash only) and includes unlimited water for tea, plus 4 sweet treats.
3. Have a tea ceremony at a tea house in Jiufen
Did you know that the tea ceremony wasn’t invented in Japan? It originates from China, during the Tang Dynasty, and was introduced to Japan only in the 9th century. With the heavy Chinese influence in Taiwan, due to centuries of migration and the Qing Dynasty ruling over the island for two centuries, plus being under colonial Japanese rule for 50 years until WWII, it makes sense that Taiwan has also adopted the tea culture, especially as tea grows so nicely in Taiwan.
But having a tea ceremony in Taiwan isn’t quite the same as in Japan, where the focus is on strict movements for preparing green tea (matcha) and a meditative, Buddhist approach. In contrast, in Taiwan the tea ceremony is about brewing tea leaves in a relaxed setting to socialise and enjoy the flavour of the high-quality tea.
In Jiufen, A-Mei Teahouse is the one I’d recommend for a tea ceremony, as it’s not just iconic and offers great views but also quite affordable at $300 Taiwanese dollars (about €8) per person. Jiufen teahouse is another popular one with great views and a nice setting, and is said to be less commercialised, but the tea package starts at $800 Taiwanese dollars (about €22) and goes up to $2200 TWD (about €60).
4. Try traditional Taiwanese dishes and treats
Walking along the main area in Jiufen means you’ll encounter lots of food stalls. Notable Taiwanese treats to try include the peanut ice cream roll, notably the A-Zhu Peanut Ice Cream Roll stall, taro balls, and packaged snacks like seaweed snacks, pineapple cake, etc. You’ll find vendors giving out free samples for the packaged snacks, so you can taste first before deciding to purchase anything.
Venture outside Jiufen: where to go and what to see?
1. Visit Shifen and its waterfall
Shifen is a popular spot near Jiufen, and you can take the train to Ruifang, then take the 1062 bus. Plan to spend around 3 hours in Shifen. The highlights include walking along the Old Street and the railway tracks, and crossing the Jingan Suspension Bridge.
Many people also go to Shifen to release a lantern, but the reality is that the lanterns still fall back to the ground, creating unnecessary trash and potential fire hazards.
2. Explore the historic mountain town of Jinguashi
Located in Ruifang District, Jinguashi is a town known for its historic gold and copper mines. It’s about 3km from Jiufen, so you can walk 30 minutes there, or take the 1062 or 965 bus. During WWII, it was also used as a war camp, known as the Kinkaseki Prisoner of War Camp.
Don’t miss the New Taipei City Gold Museum, an open-air museum where you’ll find a residence building, offices, and mining facilities, and a pure gold brick of 220.30 kg.
3. Pet some cats at Houtong Cat Village
Cat lovers will appreciate Houtong Cat Village, about 30 minutes from Jiufen by public transport. The village, once in decline, became a popular tourist spot thanks to a local resident who started saving abandoned cats, and today you’ll find lots of free-roaming cats there. They’re well taken care of, and there’s a system in place to sterilise them to prevent overpopulation of cats.
4. Visit the Golden Waterfall
You can walk to the Golden Waterfall from Jiufen (about 2.3km, or 30 minutes) or you can take the bus. It’s called the Golden Waterfall because the water flows over rust-coloured rocks, and with the right light hitting the rocks, it almost looks golden. It’s a pretty cool phenomenon, and it’s right by the main road.
Jiufen itinerary: 3 days in Jiufen
If you’re planning on spending more than 1 day in Jiufen, see the itinerary below on how to spend 3 days in Jiufen. You can base yourself there and stay at one of multiple accommodations in Jiufen with direct views over the ocean.
Day 1: Jiufen
Arrive in Jiufen at some point during the day. There’s no need to arrive early, as the town will be crowded from 10am to 8pm regardless. By all means, explore the food stalls and shops during the day, but wait til after 8pm to properly enjoy the town with all the lanterns lit, and to get the photos you want.
Day 2: Shifen and Houtong Cat Village
Start your day wandering through Jiufen in the early morning, before 10am, then take the bus and train and head out to Shifen to spend the next 3 hours. Explore Shifen’s old town, the railway tracks, and then head out to the waterfall, known to be the broadest in Taiwan, at 40 m wide.
After Shifen, before heading back to Jiufen, take the local train to Houtong Cat Village to have some cat therapy with the friendly furry pets. Then take the train to Ruifang, and then the bus back to Jiufen.
Day 3: Jinguashi, Golden Waterfall
From Jiufen, you can walk 30 minutes (2.2km) to Jinguashi and spend about half a day there, exploring the New Taipei City Gold Museum and enjoy the purest and heaviest gold brick. After that, walk 1.8km or 30 minutes to the Golden Waterfall (you can also take a bus), before returning back to Jiufen.
FAQs
Is Jiufen worth visiting?
Jiufen is a beautiful town worth visiting, especially with its iconic A-Mei teahouse and lantern-lit stone staircase. However, bear in mind that Jiufen gets extremely crowded as it’s a popular day trip from Taipei. For a better experience, I recommend spending the night in Jiufen to enjoy it at night when the lanterns are lit up and the crowds are gone.
What’s the best time of day to visit Jiufen?
The best time of day to visit Jiufen is early morning around 8 or 9am before it gets crowded, or after 8pm when the day trippers leave and the town looks magical with all the red lanterns lit up. However, note that most food stalls would be closed during the early morning or late evening hours, though most restaurants would still be open for dinner at 8pm.
Should I spend the night in Jiufen?
Yes it’s best to spend the night in Jiufen to enjoy a crowd-free experience and see the town lit up at night, or enjoy a quiet breakfast the next morning.
