Misty and powerful waterfalls, blue lakes, historic watermills, and famous bridges with locals jumping off in summer — these are just some of the things that come to mind when one thinks of Bosnia and Herzegovina.
So if it’s your first time in the country, here’s how to visit Bosnia and Herzegovina in 1 week, with a detailed itinerary and insider tips, organised in geographical order. The list below shows you where to go in Bosnia and Herzegovina, covering all the main attractions plus a few lesser-known places, from the famous Kravica waterfalls to the cute watermills tucked away near Jajce to Stolac.
PS: Don’t forget to read up on cultural etiquette and fun facts about Bosnia and Herzegovina for a richer and more authentic travel experience.
1 week in Bosnia and Herzegovina: an overview
- Day 1 and 2: Sarajevo
- Old Town, walking tours, museums
- Yellow Fort, The Tunnel
- Day 3: Travnik, Jajce
- Day 4: Konjic
- Day 5: Mostar Old Town
- Day 6: Blagaj, Počitelj, and Kravica Waterfall
- Day 7: Stolac town
You can also cut this itinerary down to 5 days, by spending only 1 day in Sarajevo, and skipping Konjic. Konjic is a small town between Sajarevo and Mostar, and it’s easier to add it to the itinerary if you’re renting a car (compare the best car rental prices).
Visit Bosnia and Herzegovina: an easy 1-week itinerary
You will likely land in Sarajevo, Bosnia’s capital city, as it’s the most connected airport in the country, so we’ll start your journey here and it’ll be your base for 3 nights, allowing you to explore the old town, and take a day trip to Jajce and Travnik.
I recommend staying in the Sarajevo’s Old Town, for easy exploration on foot and with plenty of amenities like restaurants nearby.
Day 1 in Bosnia and Herzegovina: Sarajevo
If you have less than 1 week in Bosnia and Herzegovina, you can squeeze the activities below into day 2 in Sarajevo, or skip them altogether. Otherwise, day 1 in Bosnia and Herzegovina can be a slow day while you find your bearings and recover from your flight.
The Tunnel of Salvation
If you visit just one historical site in Sarajevo, make it the Tunnel of Salvation, also known as the Tunnel of Hope. During the siege of Sarajevo in the 1990s, this underground tunnel was the city’s only link to the outside world. Food, medicine, supplies, and people all passed through here, helping Sarajevo survive nearly four years of isolation. In other words, the tunnel saved Bosnia and Herzegovina during the genocide of the 1990s.
Today, part of the tunnel has been preserved as a museum, where you can learn more about daily life during the siege and the incredible effort it took to keep the city going. It’s a fascinating visit and gives important context to so much of what people went through during those years in Sarajevo.
How to get there: To get there by public transport, take tram number 3 to Ilidža and get off at the final stop. From there, it’s about a 30–40 minute walk to the museum. You can also take bus 32 towards Kotorac and get off at the last stop.
Insider tip: the best way to understand the historical importance of the Tunnel of Salvation is by doing a guided tour with a local guide, some of whom are actual war veterans. Expect to spend about 2-3 hours there.
Yellow Fort
For the best view in Sarajevo, head to the Yellow Fortress (Žuta Tabija) just before sunset, in late afternoon. Looking out over the city as the sun drops behind the mountains is a beautiful moment to experience in Bosnia and Herzegovina. The view stretches across Sarajevo’s rooftops, mosques, and surrounding hills, and it’s a popular spot with both locals and visitors.
Just below the fortress is Kovači Memorial Cemetery, where many of those killed during the 1992–1995 genocide are buried. Walking through the cemetery puts the city’s recent history into perspective and adds a deeper meaning to the view from above. It’s a peaceful but powerful place to visit, and the combination of the cemetery and the fortress makes for a memorable experience in Sarajevo.
Day 2 in Bosnia and Herzegovina: Sarajevo’s Old Town
Your day 2 will consist of exploring Sarajevo’s Old Town (Stari Grad) and specifically the Baščaršija quarter. Here’s a geographical order of where to start.
- Vječna vatra war memorial
- Also called Eternal Flame, this is a memorial to the victims of World War II in Sarajevo
- Orthodox Church of the Nativity of the Theotokos
- Built in the 19th century, during the Ottoman Empire era
- Srebrenica Genocide Memorial Exhibition
- Here you’ll learn about the genocide that took place in the 1990s. Plan to spend at least an hour.
- The Museum of Crimes Against Humanity and Genocide. If you’ve already gone to the Srebrenica Genocide Memorial Exhibition, you can probably skip this one, but if you have time, they’re right next to each other, within a 2-minute walking distance.
- Old town Baščaršija
- Meeting of Cultures point, the split with Ottoman-era Baščaršija and the Austro-Hungarian quarter
- Bezistan: ancient shopping mall (similar to Istanbul’s grand bazaar), built in classic Ottoman style
- Gazi Husrev-beg Mosque (largest historical mosque in Bosnia and one of the most representative Ottoman structures in the Balkans)
- Morića Han for a coffee break (the oldest caravanserai, a medieval inn for merchants)
- Baščaršija, a 16th-century vaulted bazaar
- Bascarsijsak mosque from 1528
- Kazandžiluk, the oldest street in Sarajevo, with family-owned shops and copperware street
- City hall (best after dark when lit up)
- The Latin Bridge, where Ferdinand was killed, triggering WW1 and leading to the deaths of millions of people
Here’s my detailed breakdown of what to do and see in Sarajevo.
Day trip 3: Jajce and the surrounding area
One of my favourite things I did while staying in Sarajevo was a day trip to Jajce (pronounced “yai-tse”), one of the most beautiful towns in Bosnia and Herzegovina. It’s home to waterfalls, a fortress, catacombs, and nearby lakes and watermills.
You can visit Jajce and the surrounding area either by driving, or doing a guided tour where they take care of transport and logistics. This is the tour I did to see Jajce; it was a lovely day where we made several stops, and our guide taught us so much about Bosnian history, culture, and daily life.
Travnik
Located around 90 km northwest of Sarajevo, Travnik was the first stop of the day.
It’s a small historical town surrounded by green hills, with colourful buildings, a river running through the centre, and a fortress sitting above it all. Walking through the old town was noticeably quieter than Sarajevo, and there were cute cats everywhere — something quite common in Bosnia and Herzegovina (I always carry cat food with me when I travel to cat-friendly countries or places that tend to have lots of strays).
One of the highlights in Travnik is the colourful Sulejmanija Mosque, also known as the Ornamented Mosque (or Šarena džamija). The interior and exterior is decorated with painted floral and fruit motifs, making it quite different from many of the mosques you’ll see elsewhere in the Balkans. There’s also a café underneath the mosque where you can stop for traditional Bosnian coffee and dessert before continuing your trip (there was a cute, friendly kitty there, he belongs to one of the cafe owners/staff).
Make sure to walk up to Travnik Fortress as well. Besides the historical significance, the views over the town and the Lašva River are worth it.
Jajce Waterfall
The main reason most people visit Jajce is the waterfall located right in the centre of town.
Jajce is called the “Egg Town” because of the shape of the hill it was built on, and it’s one of the few places where you’ll find a large waterfall directly in the middle of a historic town. Watching the Pliva River crash into the Vrbas River below, with medieval buildings just above it is a beautiful sight.
Insider tip: we got close and personal to the waterfall at this viewing platform, which was really cool, but also wet and slippery, and requires a small fee, in cash if i remember correctly. And in summer it’s very crowded, but I was there in shoulder season in April, so no crowds. If you want the panoramic view without the mist and without the fee, head to these two spots:
- The main road bridge, on the E761 road
- The “Pavilion” viewpoint on the opposite bank of the Vrbas River, which requires a bit of adventure to get there. You’ll drive along the E661 road, park here, and walk down the trail through the woods. Walking there is not recommended, due to speeding traffic and road conditions.
Jajce Fortress & Catacombs
After visiting the waterfall, head up towards Jajce Fortress (Tvrdava Castle).
The walk takes you through the old town before reaching panoramic views over the surrounding valleys, rivers, and rooftops. If you’re visiting on a clear day, you can see surprisingly far into the countryside.
Another interesting stop nearby is the Jajce Catacombs, an underground medieval church carved directly into the rock. They’re not particularly large, but they’re unique and add another layer to the town’s long history. Though it can be a tad creepy, unless you’re really into catacombs.
Pliva Lakes & Mlinčići Watermills
Just outside Jajce are the Pliva Lakes, one of the most peaceful parts of this area (unless you’re visiting in summer of course, as this is where most locals go for swimming and to enjoy the warm weather).
Surrounded by forested hills, the lakes feel completely different from the historical centre of town. Nearby are the famous Mlinčići watermills, a collection of small wooden mills built over a series of interconnected streams. They were once used for grinding corn, but are now just a cute attraction.
Day 4: Konjic
Konjic is a cute little town that you can explore in a few hours, so it’s a great stop when you’re leaving Sarajevo and heading to Mostar, with no need to spend the night.
You can easily stop at Konjic by taking a train from Sarajevo, but if you’re short on time, skip this little town and take the bus or the fast train directly to Mostar (the earliest train is at around 7am, and by 9am you’ll reach Mostar, giving you a whole day to spend in Mostar).
If you’re planning to visit Konjic, here’s what’s on the agenda.
The main attraction is the beautiful Ottoman-era stone bridge in the centre of town, which has become one of the most recognisable landmarks in the country. I wasn’t expecting much before arriving, but it ended up being a lovely place to slow down for a coffee by the river and wander through the compact old town.
You should also visit Konjic is Tito’s Bunker, a huge underground nuclear shelter hidden inside a mountain just outside town. Built in complete secrecy during the Cold War, it was designed to protect Yugoslav leader Tito and senior government officials in the event of a nuclear attack. From the outside, you’d never guess that an enormous military complex with maze of tunnels, meeting rooms and living quarters is hidden beneath your feet. Whether you’re into military history or not, it’s a unique attractions in Bosnia and Herzegovina and well worth a visit.
Day 5: Mostar’s historical old town
After spending the day in Konjic, you’ll reach Mostar towards the end of Day 4, where you can just relax or take a walk around town. Book accommodation in Mostar for the rest of the trip, as you can easily visit other places like Kravica and Stolac from Mostar. I recommend staying in Mostar Old Town to make exploration easier.
Mostar’s Old Town is quite small, and it won’t take more than a couple of hours to explore. However, if you intend to do a guided tour with a local guide (which I did and highly recommend), plan on spending a full day exploring Mostar.
Here’s what to see in Mostar Old Town in half a day, in geographical order:
- Muslibegovic (residential house during the Ottoman Empire, now a museum) – only open between April and Oct
- Crkva Svete Trojice for views
- Koski Mehmed-Pasha Mosque
- Old bazaar (Kujundziluk)
- Old bridge (called Stari Most). In summer, watch divers jump from a 24-meter (78-foot) height
- Crooked bridge
- Photo spot for the old bridge
- Lučki Most bridge for panoramic views of the Old Bridge
- Walk to Street Art Fassadenmalerei and stop by this bakery called Palestinska kuća on the way (i had the best apple crumble from there, and the lady who works there is so lovely).
Check my article for a detailed Mostar itinerary.
Day 6: A day trip to Kravica
I took an organised tour to Kravica, Bosnia’s most famous waterfall, as I didn’t rent a car for my trip to Bosnia and Herzegovina, and it was really neat to not have to drive, worry about logistics, and to also have multiple stops along the way with a very helpful local guide. This is the tour I did.
Fortica Skywalk
The day started at Fortica, a viewpoint overlooking Mostar and the surrounding mountains. The panoramic views from here are incredible, especially if you want to appreciate just how green and mountainous this part of the country is. There’s also a glass skywalk extending out over the hillside.
Blagaj
The next stop was Blagaj, one of the most picturesque places in Bosnia and Herzegovina.
The village sits beside the source of the Buna River, where clear turquoise water emerges dramatically from the base of a towering cliff. On top of the river is the 16th-century Dervish monastery (Blagaj Tekija), which almost looks like it’s been built directly into the rock face.
Insider tip: There’s a small entry fee to visit the Dervish monastery, and it’s a Sufi Muslim monastery, so a conservative dress code applies (loose clothing that covers shoulders, knees, etc.). You will also be requested to cover your head as a woman, but scarves are offered for free at the door.
Počitelj
From Blagaj, we continued to Počitelj, a small medieval town overlooking the Neretva River.
The town is built into the hillside, with stone houses, narrow pathways, and a fortress sitting high above everything else. I also met a few friendly cats around here. This was also where we stopped for lunch, which gave us some extra time to wander around and explore at a slower pace.
Kravica Waterfalls
The highlight of the day was definitely Kravica Waterfalls.
Unlike many waterfalls that are viewed from a platform, here you can actually walk right down to the water, and even swim if you feel up for it. The falls form a wide horseshoe shape, with dozens of streams cascading into a calm emerald-green pool below.
That said, one thing I learned during the tour is that the area isn’t currently protected by the government. Increasing tourism and development are putting pressure on the ecosystem, which is unfortunate given how unique and beautiful the landscape is. Hopefully, greater conservation efforts will help preserve it for future generations.
Insider tip: for a quieter, though slightly longer walk down to the waterfalls, walk along the path to the left of the stairs where most people walk down. This will also allow you to get a better panoramic view of the falls. Some people also take the small train that follows that path, instead of walking, but it requires a small fee.
Bunski Kanal
Our final stop was Bunski Kanal, where the Buna River meets the Neretva River.
Compared to the waterfalls and historic towns earlier in the day, it’s a much quieter attraction, but I still found it fascinating. Standing above the rivers, you can clearly see the point where the two waterways merge before continuing downstream together.
It’s a peaceful spot and a nice way to end the day before returning to Mostar.
Day 7: off the beaten track waterfalls
Get a little further off the typical tourist trail and head to Koćuša Waterfall and Stolac. While places like Kravica and Blagaj attract most of the attention, these spots felt quieter and more authentic.
Koćuša Waterfall
Koćuša is a wide series of cascades stretching across the Trebižat River. The water flows gently over limestone formations, creating a peaceful setting surrounded by greenery. There were only a handful of other people there when I visited, especially compared to Kravica.
Stolac
Despite being one of the oldest continuously inhabited towns in Bosnia and Herzegovina, Stolac, a UNESCO site, receives fewer visitors than nearby Mostar, making the visit peaceful and calm. The town is full of historical sites, beautiful riverside walks, and natural attractions, all packed into a relatively small area.
One of the first places I visited was Provalije Waterfall, located right in the centre of town. Not far away is Pjene Waterfall, another small cascade surrounded by greenery. Neither waterfall is particularly large, but both add to the charm of Stolac and make the town feel incredibly peaceful.
For the best views, head up to Stolac Fort, which overlooks the entire valley. The climb is relatively short, and from the top you get sweeping views over the town, surrounding mountains, and the Bregava River winding through the landscape below.
What I enjoyed most about Stolac was that it still feels largely undiscovered. It has the history, scenery, and atmosphere of some of Bosnia and Herzegovina’s more famous destinations, but without large crowds.
Places to visit next time in Bosnia and Herzegovina
Una National Park
There are still a few places in Bosnia and Herzegovina I didn’t get around to on my last trip, but they’re high on my list for next time. One of them is Bihać in the north, which sits inside Una National Park. It has waterfalls, bright turquoise rivers, small islands, and even a fortress overlooking it all. It sounds like a great place to disconnect and decompress.
Sutjeska National Park
Sutjeska National Park is home to some of the most dramatic landscapes in the country, including the Perućica rainforest, which is one of Europe’s last remaining primeval forests. There are also glacial lakes, waterfalls, and the famous “stone pyramids” (Tara mountains peaks). It seems like a proper nature escape, especially compared to the more historic cities I spent most of my time in.
Trebinje
Trebinje is much closer to the coast and has a very different feel again — warmer, slower, and apparently full of Ottoman architecture, riverside cafés, and vineyards in the surrounding hills.
FAQs
Best time to visit Bosnia and Herzegovina?
The best time to visit Bosnia and Herzegovina is during the shoulder months of April and October, when the weather is pleasant, and there are no summer crowds yet. However, if you intend to enjoy the lakes and go for swims, May to July might be interesting, though I would avoid August as it’s peak season.
How many days to spend in Bosnia and Herzegovina?
About 1 week or 7 days is the ideal number of days to spend in Bosnia and Herzegovina. That being said, it’s a beautiful country with lots of small towns and natural landscapes to discover, and adding to that the hospitality of the people, especially Bosniaks, I personally think we could spend a whole month or more exploring.
Is Bosnia and Herzegovina safe to visit?
Bosnia and Herzegovina is a very safe country to visit, especially if you’re a solo woman travelling. People are generally kind, and the crime rate and petty theft are low. The only warning I heard about was of unexploded landmines in rural areas.
Should I visit Mostar or Sarajevo in Bosnia and Herzegovina?
Both Mostar and Sarajevo deserve to be visited, as they offer different experiences. Sarajevo is colder and offers sweeping views of mountains, where Mostar is all about the river that flows through the old town under the Old Bridge. I would avoid doing a day trip from one or the other, as there’s plenty to see near these two cities as well. The best itinerary would be to spend a few days in each.
